So far so good
So far it is working very good at a semi challenging yard (slops)
The only real issue I have is the fuel sight gage.
You cannot see how much fuel you have, and I did got stuck in the middle of the yard empty
August 8, 2014
Overall Poor Quality
I bought the YTH42XLS NEW in June of 2013. First impression was great but after 40 hours on the mower I have a completely different impression. I am also having the same problems with the deck leaving a strip of grass down the middle between the left and middle blade. I have had the baffle kit installed on the deck and it still mows the same. I mow twice a week and my grass only grows about an inch and it still leaves streaks and clogs up the deck no matter how dry the grass is... Very poor design quality! I also have issues with the locking differential ripping up my grass and the mower goes straight with the wheels turned. I was mowing the other day and the left rear well fell off going around a corner which in return caused my tractor to fall towards my shed and the deck height adjustment handle caught a 4x4 post. That was the last straw for me... Warranty repairs this year include the baffle kit, battery strap, battery guage, battery, and deck spindle. I am very disappointed considering the price I paid for the mower.... spend your hard earned money on something else like a cub, deere, or simplicity...
August 5, 2014
Worst mower ever
What the brilliant designers forgot is to figure the blade. 14" blade is much different from a20" blade. Blade tip speed fps is roughly twice as fast on 20"blade. I am having the same bad cut issues as the other people. My grass gets cut at least 2x per week. Tall grass is not the issue, very poor design is. I bought a JD 130 for my son in Tn and his cut is good, 1 belt. one battery in 10 years. Sure would be nice to be able to trade for a ZT mower.. The clunking noise in the steering and the play is also an issue.
July 30, 2014
Disappointed in Iowa
I am with Disappointed in Texas. I am so disappointed it almost makes me sick. I bought what I thought would be my last mower. Boy was I wrong. Husqvarna told the man from Texas he was cutting to tall of grass well let me assure you that is NOT the case as I cut mine every week when it's about 4 inches down to 2 inches and it leaves a strip between the three blades about 2 inches wide and in the turns they get even wider. I will upload pics after my next cut. Husqvarna built a very rugged mower deck (guaranteed for life, Can I take my deck back and trade it for a 2 bladed deck?) but they didn't put enough thought in the blade alignment as they do not overlap each other enough (and Husqvarna know's this by now). I think they should build us a better deck and ship them to the dealer to install for us (wishful thinking). It also has a bad clunk in the front end when going over a bump (should of had nylon bushings and rubber pads in their design) but I can live with that. On the other hand I absolutely love the tractor it runs like a champ, starts nice and seems to pull my trailer with ease. But I bought it to mow :(
July 2, 2014
Very poor cut and deck wash thing did not work very good. Took back to the dealer and got my money back..
June 12, 2014
The best 42" riding mower available. Period.
I have the 2012 Husqvarna YTH24V42LS (this exact mower minus the side tray, side handles and charging port). I've owned the mower for almost 2 years now. 35 hours on the meter. When my neighbor's brand new Craftsman rider snapped it's drive belt last summer and I let him borrow my Husqvarna his exact words were "It's like driving a Cadillac!". I live in Florida and mow St. Augustine grass. Sharp blades and not too tall of grass and it'll mow like a dream, even at higher speeds. Kawasaki engine is an awesome power plant. Ample amount of power and with regular oil/filter changes, synthetic oil and regular cleaning of the entire engine it'll likely last 25-30 years. I do have to say that the engine is quite thirsty and I have not noted the same fuel savings as others. In regards to the Tuff Torq K46 transaxle it tends to groan and strain on extreme grades. I've seen some complaints in regards to the trans but that's not really fair. At this price point you can expect nothing more. The John Deere X300 is $400 more and has the same trans. Just don't use ground engaging attachments, keep the case clean and change the oil (many online guides available) at 50 hours (per Tuff Torq recommendations) to Castrol Syntec 5W-50 and every 200 hours thereafter and the trans will last as long as the rest of the mower. Another complaint I've seen is the tendency for the tractor to plow forward due to the locking differential. To that I say, did you not test drive before the purchase? It can be annoying at times but just drop your ground speed and it becomes more manageable. When you need the locking diff (such as going up a wet, steep hill) you'll be thankful for it. On the topic of steering I have one complaint: it is a little difficult to steer at lower speeds. It doesn't bother me all that much but I have 8 John Deere riding mowers ranging from late 70's to the late 2000's and the steering on almost every single one is much easier, including the LA130 with a certainly as heavy engine as the Kawasaki. The fabricated deck is of course the other highlight of the mower. Lifetime warranty, twin sheets of 11 gauge steel, greasable spindles, easy to clean top to bottom and metal belt guards (not plastic like a Craftsman or John Deere). This deck is about twice as thick as the competition's AND includes a front nose roller to further avoid scalping. Another great feature is the fabric seat, not that awful vinyl that will inevitably crack and fade. Lastly, the awesome metal hood/hood hinges. Many manufacturers are cost cutting and switching to plastic or variations thereof and they simply are not as durable or long lasting. My John Deere LT180's hood (made of plastic-like material called Xenoy) is about $500 to replace. They say the plastic will take a hammer strike without damage but the problem is that it'll inevitably crack in pressure points such as the hinges. I'd rather bang out a dent than replace the entire hood (been there, done that). In conclusion the YT42XLS is hands down the best sub $3000 mower available considering the metal hood, fabricated deck, fabric seat and Kawasaki engine. If you're in the process of comparing do so no longer and purchase this unit. You will not regret it.
Post script: As an aside I do have a protestation to put forth: the bagger for the fabricated deck is an outrageous $849.95. A truly ridiculous sum that is accompanied by poor reviews in quality. Personally I purchased the reasonably priced mulch kit (also made of metal, not of plastic like John Deere mulch kits).
May 26, 2014
I absolutely love this tractor. My previous mower was an older Deere and this out performs it ten fold.
This cuts great, starts easy, the ride and handling are superb and the look is impressive. The fabbed deck and hydrostatic transmission is a must now-a-days.
May 22, 2014
A Good Dealer Is A Must
Be sure you save your review. The site crashed and mine was lost - but I had saved it elsewhere.
Delivered on April 4, 2014 the tractor has only about 2 hrs on it. So, it is difficult to predict reliability. It appears well made and the Kawasaki engine is very smooth. I have noticed what an earlier reviewer stated about the limited slip differential in that the tractor will not easily turn hard left without ploughing the front wheels because the rear wheels are in traction lock mode. I found that the way to get around this is to lift off of the forward control pedal slightly and then push it back down. Normally, however, this is not a problem area for me. I have also found that the rear point of the discharge chute will dig into the ground when backing. I may trim off some of this back point which is too aggressive. While a three blade mower, I have found that the mower does not readily cut tall thin weeds. You either have to back over them again, cut from a different direction or just mow over them again. Again, this is not a real issue for me because I was doing the neighbor a favor and cut her rear yard. When just cutting grass, the cut is fine.
A call to Customer Service for a question was not answered after 30 minutes on hold and I gave up. My call concerned removal of a "bolt" at the bottom of a mesh inverted "V" shaped insert. Removal of this insert facilitates the attachment of the plastic tube and then the turning of a small valve with a wrench to drain the oil and finally the removal of the oil filter. The site's video help site and manual state only - "remove the bolt". They do not state how this is done as there is no ridged head or nut on this bolt. It is just round. I stopped in and asked the service mechanic at the selling dealer. It is like a snap fastener. Slide a screwdriver or other thin flat prying attachment between the frame and the black mesh cover and carefully pry it away from the frame. This plastic bolt will then "pop" through its retainer on the inside of the frame allowing you to remove it. Now, carefully lift the mesh cover up and remove it also. It has small "doglegs" that will go into inserts when you reinstall it. Being sure that the engine is well warmed, loosen the ridged oil fill knob attached to the dipstick used to measure the amount of oil in the engine. Once the oil is drained using a wrench to turn the valve, remove the used oil filter. Use a rag as this filter will be hot. Now, lubricate the large "O" ring on the new filter with new oil. Dip your finger into the new oil and liberally wipe it on the "O" ring being sure that the surface is covered. One note of caution - new oil does not contain the carcinogens that used motor oil does. If you get the used oil on your hands or anywhere else on your skin, it is important that you wash and clean your hands or other area well with soap and water - several times. Now, with a clean lint free cloth, wipe the filter sealing surface on the motor. Carefully thread the new filter onto the threaded portion of the engine where you removed the old oil filter. Tighten until the "O" ring makes contact with the engine flange and then, by hand tighten it one half turn more. Close the drain with the wrench, remove the plastic hose carefully, as you will reuse it for years. Before you add the new oil carefully wipe the oil filler tube being VERY careful that no debris falls into the oil filler tube. When you you add the new oil the guideline is a total of 3 qt for oil and filter. With the throttle set on idle, start the engine. Do not use full throttle at this time as the engine will be operating with no oil pressure until the filter is filled. It takes only about four seconds if you have no accessory oil pressure light. Check for leaks. Shut the engine off. Re-install the mesh doglegs into the slots on the side of the housing where you removed it. Be careful, they are delicate. When you have checked for a correct installation, now put the plastic bolt into the hole and push or tap it into place. You should hear a click to tell you that it is latched. Now, remove the dipstick. Wipe off the measuring end and carefully wipe the area around the oil fill. Follow the directions for the Kawasaki motor. Instructions in the downloaded manual are wrong. When the engine has been shut off for several minutes, insert the dip stick into the oil filler tube and set the screw cap down on top of the threads. Do NOT screw the cap down as the instructions state. It gives an incorrect reading of one half quart. Withdraw the dip stick and check the oil level. It should be on the "full" mark. If not, you can add more, but very carefully and only a little at a time. When correct, screw the cap into place and your oil and filter change are complete. Now grease the mandrels wiping off the accumulated dirt before attaching the grease gun or you will inject dirt into the bearings - not good.
I did purchase the charge maintenance unit. It plugs into the port, after you remove the dust cover, on the hood of the tractor. There are three lights on the hood. Blinking Green is good, amber is marginal and red - charge it. This external charger and battery maintenance unit will be handy when winter comes and/or the tractor will not be used for a month or more. Beats buying a battery and will help the original last much longer.
Also, be sure to check the tire pressures as advised. My rear tires are to have 10 lbs of pressure and had about 24. Not Good.
I like the tractor. It is difficult for me to judge value until I have had it for several years.
May 16, 2014